The best restaurants in Lima—9 unmissable dining experiences for both modern & classic Peruvian food

Falling in love with the landscapes and food of Peru is easy when it comes to Lima. Full of street stalls, basic eateries and some of the best high-end restaurants in the world, this beautiful city really does have it all. The first time I visited I was travelling the world on a budget so didn't have chance to splash out, but on my returning visit I made food my focus, here are the best restaurants I’d recommend if you’re heading to Lima...

Tiradito at Barra Khuda

1. Isolina, Barranco (Av San Martin 101, Barranco)

Capitana Isolina

Chef José del Castillo has made it his mission to make offal cool again. My main love for Isolina is that they use animal parts that would normally be thrown away, on the menu for my visit was a fried blood and tripe dish called Cau Cau con Sangrecita, chicken sweetbread stew and pan fried beef liver. Peruvian cooking has always had its fair amount of offal, it’s a great way to cut wastage and the creole style dishes here won’t disappoint, they’re huge and made for sharing. My favourite dish was the ceviche with octopus chicharrón, but I also really liked the Lomo Saltado (wok-fried steak, onions and tomatoes). Cocktails here are strong, Capitana Isolina, made of Pisco, vermouth, a splash of red wine and bitters was my favourite but they also do a mean Pisco Sour. The atmosphere is relaxed and fun, head here when you’re hungry.

2. Mo Bistro, Miraflores (Angamos Oeste 1146 Miraflores)

Leek confit topped with shaved Brazil nuts

The vibe at Mo Bistro was the first thing that struck me, ceiling to floor glass windows at the front of the restaurant let in glorious early evening light that made me feel content from the moment I entered. It’s light and breezy with an open kitchen area so you can see dishes being prepared as you wait. I tried an eight-course tasting menu with drinks pairing, including a few new dishes from chef Matias Cilloniz. The menu included veal brain croquette paired with a local IPA, a pretty white asparagus dish with coriander and lime emulsion and a beautiful leek confit topped with shaved brazil nuts, paired with a delicious Argentinian chardonnay. I really enjoyed my evening at Mo Bistro and would love to go back to try the brunch menu tat they are so well known for.

3. Huancahuasi, La Victoria (Av. Javier Prado Este 1405, La Victoria)

Ceviche and choclo at colourful Huancahuasi

Filled with tables, covered by Peruvian textiles, Huancahuasi is perhaps the most colourful restaurant I visited while in Lima. The food here was some of my favourite too, with simple dishes using typical Peruvian ingredients like Aji Amarillo (yellow chilli), choclo (large white corn) and Alpaca meat. I loved the ceviche, fried guinea pig and Alpaca Saltado. You can also try Chicha Morada, a very popular dark purple drink made of purple corn, boiled with cinnamon, cloves and pineapple skin. For me it’s a bit too sweet but they also make a great Pisco Sours too.

4. Kjolle, Barranco (Av. Pedro de Osma 301, Barranco)

Beef & Corn at Kjolle

I adore slick restaurants and they don’t come much slicker than Kjolle, headed up by chef Pía León, who at 31, was named Latin America’s best female chef. The place has an industrial feel, the service is extremely attentive and the staff really know what they’re talking about. I had the nine-course tasting menu with wine pairing, it was a lot to take in. Standout courses were ‘Beef & Corn’, tender slow cooked short ribs covered in a burnt corn puree with Peruvian herb called paico used for the dressing. I also loved the ‘Scallops & Seeds’, served simply with lime extract, ginger and Pacae, which comes from a tree native to the Andean valleys. My favourite sweet course was the ‘Cacao From Mil’, consisting of chewy, nutty, chocolaty ribbons and the distinctive tasting fruit Cherimoya with Amazonian Honey. Kjolle is one of the more high-end restaurants in Lima, but unmissable for an experience you won’t forget.

5. Barra Khuda, La Victoria (Juan Voto Bernales 340, La Victoria)

Tiradito with Hormigas Culonas at Barra Khuda

This place doesn’t look much from the outside, but the dishes are some of the prettiest I saw in the city. Specialising in ceviche and tiradito, Barra Khuda's plates smack you in the face with colour and style then the incredible flavours explode on your tongue. Using cacao nibs, Hormigas Culonas (big ass ants!), yuka and popped quinoa in some dishes, chef Enrique Paredes brings a few of Peru’s most interesting tastes to the plates here at Barra Khuda. Oh, and don’t miss the Gyozas a lo Macho too.

6. La Niña, Miraflores (Francisco de Paula Camino 299, Miraflores)

Scallops at La Nina

Chef Andres Orellana has an infectious smile, he’s so filled with passion for his work that it bubbles out of him as he describes the food and wine pairing I have one fun night in his fabulous La Niña restaurant. Starting with scallops served in shells with toasted avocado and coral sauce I knew La Nina would become one of my favourite restaurants in Lima. Each course had a Peruvian or Chilean wine to match and complement the dish, an orange biodynamic wine from the Mimo winery in Peru’s Ica valley, served alongside hot ceviche, was outstanding and has fast become one of my favourite wines. I also loved the roasted Guinea Pig followed by Duck Magret served with Tucupi sauce (extracted from a wild root from the Amazon jungle). This place is surely going to become one of the best restaurants in the city.

7. Siete Sopas, Lince (Av. Arequipa 2394, Lince)

2am Soup at Siete Sopas

Hands down, the soup here is the best I’ve tasted in my life. The huge reputation and snaking queues round the building day and night aren’t for nothing! We headed to Siete Sopas at 2am after getting off a flight from Tumbes earlier that evening and luckily it was late enough to get in without queuing. We ordered all three of the soups on offer; Caldo de Gallina (chicken soup), Criolla (spicy tomato and beef), and soup of the day, which turned out to be incredible lamb and mint with huge green beans. All were insane, so delicious, so moreish, so filling and hearty. We also ordered Choclitos y churrasco, a huge plate of home cooked skin-on chips, cheese, corn, beef, covered in a cheesy sauce, it was quite frankly one of the best plates of food I’ve had in a long time. Siete Sopas is super reasonably priced, casual and fun, one not to miss!

8. Shizen Barra Nikkei, Miraflores (Calle General Borgoño 286, Miraflores)

Andean trout nigiris at Shizen Barra Nikkei

This cute place serves up dreamy sushi and ramen but one of my favourite orders was the Andean trout nigiri with popped quinoa. All of the nigiri options at Shizen Barra Nikkei are outstanding and are some of the best I’ve ever eaten, on par with Nikkei Nine at the Fairmont Hotel in Hamburg. It’s a pretty small restaurant so a great lunch option when you want something a bit lighter.

9. La Lucha, Miraflores (Av. Sta. Cruz 847, Miraflores)

Pavo a la Lina at La Lucha

Yes, it pulls in the tourists and yes, it may not be as cheap as other sandwich shops but La Lucha doesn’t disappoint and has some of the friendliest staff around. Even if you don't make it to the Miraflores branch, there’s one in Lima airport so you don’t need to miss out. I had the Pavo a la Lina, an amazing chicken and onion sandwich that was so tasty and moist I’m still dreaming about it today, the Chicharrón sandwich with its crispy pork is also very good and don’t forget to order papaya juice, it's pure heaven.