Yoga in India—where to find authentic classes & memorable teachers, from Rishikesh to Kerala & beyond

As the birthplace of yoga, India is the place to go if you’re looking to learn more about the ancient physical, mental, and spiritual practice or want to get certified as a teacher. I’ve dabbled with yoga on and off since I was a teen, before embracing hot yoga in my 20s while living in London and then swapping it for running and swimming. These days I'm totally inflexible, but that’s the beauty of yoga, you can revisit it whenever you like. Each time I return to India, whether it's to the state of Tamil Nadu, the bustling capital of Delhi, or intoxicating Hyderabad, I like to make an effort to get back into yoga and the incredible meditation that comes with it. With thousands of places to practice throughout the country, these are the four I'd recommend heading to first.

Where to practice yoga in India

India offers some of the best yoga retreats and classes in the world

1. One-on-one classes in Rishikesh, Uttarakhand

World-renowned for its teacher yoga training programs, Rishikesh, with its hundreds of ashrams spread throughout the city and along the banks of the holy River Ganges makes a sound choice for getting to grips with yoga in India. Most ashrams require a minimum stay, so if you don’t want to dedicate so much time to yoga I’d recommend staying in a guesthouse and taking yoga classes as and when you want them. Ashrams in Rishikesh are pretty strict and simple, with very early starts and dorm-style rooms with shared bathrooms, so if you’re after Western home comforts this probably isn’t the place for you.

The view along the Ganges in Rishikesh, one of the best places to practise yoga in India

I stayed at Bhandari Swiss Cottage, perched up on the hill overlooking the city, this guesthouse is very simple which is reflected in the price of $15 (£11) a night, but it’s quiet and has a pretty garden area where you can eat breakfast. I had daily one-on-one Ashtanga yoga classes on the grounds of the guesthouse with Arvind, a serene teacher who was passionate and knowledgeable. Starting and ending each session with traditional chanting and meditation, the 90-minute classes cost around $2 (£1.50) per session.

2. Western classes in Varkala, Kerala

Perched high on a cliff-top in coastal Kerala, Southern India sits Soul & Surf, a Western-run hotel that offers yoga and surfing classes. More a holiday destination/surf camp than a full-on yoga shala, you can practice as much or as little as you like by buying drop-in classes or week-long class passes for around $37 (£30). 

Soul & Surf's rooftop yoga terrace

For my time at Soul & Surf, I did a mixture of 75-minute Vinyasa, Yin, and Pranayama (breathing exercises). The teacher used small touches like scented oils and pressure point massage to end each session, which I liked. Soul & Surf is recommended for first-timers to India, rather than seasoned travelers and yoga aficionados. 

3. Yoga & detox in Dudhsagar, Goa

Nestled deep in the jungle, away from the party beaches of Goa, Dudhsagar Spa Resort offers detox programs with strict twice-daily yoga classes taught in an open-air studio. On arrival, guests are weighed, measured, and analyzed, before starting a meat, dairy, and alcohol-free diet. Daily Ayurvedic massages, self-administered enemas, and yoga are mandatory. 

Dudhsagar resort in Goa

Taught by local teacher Vinay, the 90-minute Hatha yoga sessions are well-run and professional. If you’re looking to improve your yoga practice alongside getting into healthier diet habits and need a strict helping hand this is a good option. Retreats start from £264 (£200) for three nights and include accommodation, food, yoga classes, massages, meditation sessions, and a medical assessment.

4. Free yoga classes in Mamallapuram, Tamil Nadu

If you want to combine yoga practice with some of the most beautiful temples in India, carvings, and culture, Mamallapurum on India’s east coast is the place to go. This mesmerizing temple town is home to a UNESCO World Heritage site comprising 7^th and 8^th century Hindu monuments that are mind-blowingly beautiful. Better still, if you stay at Hotel Mamallaa Heritage you get free daily yoga classes. 

Embrace authentic yoga in India at Mamallapuram

Taking place at 6am each morning, leaving you with the rest of the day to explore the incredible town. Mostly one-on-one and taught by a local teacher, classes are pretty relaxed and suit people who’ve never practiced before. The hotel also has a pool, restaurant, and free breakfast, rooms start from $36 (£27) a night.