Dorjee Gyelzen Sherpa Interview: Meet the man with 24 Mount Everest summits under his belt as he reveals which mountain he’s got his sights on next

Always impressed with incredible feats of human endurance and mental strength, I’ve been following Dorjee Gyelzen Sherpa for a while now. At just 20 years old, he completed his very first summit of the mighty Mount Everest, and has since gone on to reach the peak an impressive 23 more times, including summiting not once, but twice, in a single week.

Dorjee at the top of Everest on his 21st climb in 2023

But that’s not all, the Nepalese climber has all summited K2 multiple times, and Ama Dablam, known as one of the world’s most technical peaks, 30 times, and now he’s turning his sights to the fifth tallest mountain on earth.

Having spent time in Kathmandu and trekked to Annapurna Base Camp during my solo travels, I found the Nepalese mountain ranges truly captured my imagination, so it was an absolute pleasure to speak to Dorjee Gyelzen Sherpa about his time in the majestic mountains. Here’s what he had to say about how the mountains have changed over the years, melting glaciers and his next big challenge. 

Interview with Dorjee Gyelzen Sherpa

Dorjee at Ama Dablam Base Camp

LS: Hi Dorjee, thanks for taking the time to talk to me. I would love to hear about your very first Everest summit…

DG: I was 20 years old when I began my first Everest expedition in 2007. It was a life-changing opportunity that came through my passion for mountaineering and years of preparation. Being part of that expedition at such a young age was both exciting and challenging.

LS: How did it feel to reach the summit that very first time?

DG: Reaching the summit for the first time was an incredible and emotional experience. I felt extremely proud of myself and overwhelmed with joy. I even cried. Standing at the top of the world, surrounded by breathtaking Himalaya views, was something I will never forget.

At the summit of K2 in 2022

LS: Wow, how inspiring, I can’t imagine the feeling. Have you noticed changes on the mountain over the past 10 years or so?

DG: Over the past decade, there have been significant changes. There are more climbers now, along with better facilities and improved safety measures. Helicopter support has increased, there are more doctors on expeditions, and climbers receive better training, including rescue and medical preparation.

LS: What’s your advice to someone considering climbing Everest?
DG: My advice is to be strong, both mentally and physically, and to be passionate. Climbing Everest requires determination, discipline, and respect for the mountain.

LS: Have you seen any first-hand climate damage on the mountain?

DG: Yes, I have witnessed clear signs of climate change. Glaciers and ice are melting rapidly, and the icefall is getting lower each year, plus snowfall patterns have become unpredictable.

LS: Which has been your most memorable climb? 

DG: My most memorable climb was my first Everest summit. It is very special to me because I summited twice within one week at the age of 20. It remains one of the greatest achievements of my life.

On top of K2 in 2021

LS: Have you ever had a scary moment or a time when you thought you weren't going to make it?

DG: Yes, there have been many challenging and frightening moments, especially dealing with extreme weather and traffic jams near the summit, which can lead to dangerous cold conditions and sometimes running out of oxygen.

LS: Which mountain have you got your sights on next?

DG: Yes, I would love to climb Makalu one day. I have reached Camp 3 before, but I have not yet made it to the summit.

Head to Dorjee's website to learn more about his expeditions in Nepal.