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A secret tour of Casa Gilardi, Luis Barragán's stunning architectural masterpiece in Mexico City

Art and architecture go hand in hand, and I've always been fascinated by both. On a recent trip to Mexico, where I witnessed the magic of Casa Etérea in the country's highlands, I also spent time in the capital, where I delighted in hunting out the best places to eat in Mexico City before heading to Casa Gilardi, the last project of architectural genius Luis Barragán. Unable to find any information about visiting, I turned up on the street and hung around outside until eventually someone let me in and gave me a cool little private tour of this incredible house.

outside pink wall with yellow window of casa gilardi in mexico city
The vibrant outside walls of Casa Gilardi. Photo: Lydia Swinscoe 

Coming out of retirement to work on Casa Gilardi, Barragán was commissioned by two guys who owned an advertising agency (I like to imagine they were Don Draper types) to design and oversee the project. Built around an old jacaranda tree, the place features an indoor swimming pool next to a huge dining area that's perfect for parties, a dream-like, yellow-tinged corridor, and a pretty roof terrace, all walls painted in wonderful bold blues, reds, and pinks.

long yellow corridor with glass jar of white lilies and light beaming in at Casa Gilardi on Mexico City
The yellow tinged corridor. Photo: Lydia Swinscoe

Throughout the day, as the sun moves across the sky, the light changes and dances around the place, creating a magical atmosphere. Barragán once said that he believed the ideal space must contain 'elements of magic, serenity, sorcery and mystery.'

jacaranda tree and cactus growing against pink and white walls at casa gilardi in mexico city
The courtyard with the famed jacarada tree. Photo: Lydia Swinscoe 

tree shadow on white walls with yellow windows and patio at casa gilardi in mexico city
Shadows in the afternoon light. Photo: Lydia Swinscoe 

The colours Barragán used were inspired by the artist Chucho Reyes Ferreira, and all were considered by the way the light or shadows would fall on them. I couldn't walk through the place without smiling. Casa Gilardi is faultless and the perfect last piece of work to end Barragán's legendary career.

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