What to do & where to eat in Lyme Regis—the famous fossil town on Dorset's Jurrasic Coast

As a teenager, Lyme Regis was my escape from reality. Every summer, I’d pack a bag, hop on the train, and head south, from my home in the countryside to my aunts' studio in Lyme Regis. She’d introduce me to her friends, take me to parties, and set me up with summer jobs in fun shops and galleries. I gradually got to know the place well. These are my recommendations for the perfect Dorset break.

The Jurassic Coast

What to do and where to eat in Lyme Regis

Sitting alongside crumbling cliffs on a pretty stretch of beach, Lyme Regis is an atmospheric place that instantly transports you back in time. Famous for the fossils found in and around the cliffs spanning the Jurassic Coast, it’s here that Mary Anning made some of her most important discoveries. In both summer and winter, spending time on the beach, either walking, swimming, or just chilling with a good book is the best way to soak in Lyme's natural charm.

What to do in Lyme Regis

If, unlike Anning, you’re unsuccessful at hunting out fossils for yourself, you can pick up some beautiful ammonites from shops around town. I always like to take a peek inside The Lyme Fossil Shop, which almost feels like a museum. Close by, Fuego, on Coombe Street, is one of my favourite shops for handcrafts and homeware, plus they have a great selection of world music and some fabulous nodding animals sourced by the owner from Central America. 

Or if you want to take a reminder of Lyme Regis home, The Town Mill features revolving exhibitions with work by local artists, including beautiful seascapes inspired by the Dorset coastline.

Along the sea front, the view out to sea is dominated by a distinctive wall known as The Cobb, you can watch Meryl Streep’s character walking along it in The French Lieutenant’s Woman—the first film to catapult Lyme’s street scenes to life on the big screen. Take a stroll too, to witness the waves crashing dramatically onto the Cobb walls. 

Where to eat and drink in Lyme Regis

For food, The Harbour Inn, right on the Harbour front, has the best views in town. Serving fresh seafood and good wine, it’s hard to beat, especially if you can nab a table on the balcony. For afternoon tea, I like the Alexandra Hotel, especially if the weather is good and the garden is open. Mark Hix's Oyster and Fish House whips up great cocktails and uses local suppliers and British seasonal ingredients on the menus. My favourite tipple—the Black Cow Vodka Martini—is mixed with vodka made in West Dorset from the milk of grass-grazed cows.

Cocktails at HIX

Just out of town are a couple of my favourite places to eat, the Rousdon Village Bakery, near Axminster makes freshly baked croissants and pastries every day, and has the best egg and bacon sandwich in the area, while Hive Beach Cafe, a short drive in the opposite direction has a fab beach restaurant that serves incredible fish soup and delicious fresh crab.

Fresh crab at Hive Beach