Is September a good time to hike Ben Nevis? What to expect from the UK's highest peak during autumn in the Scottish Highlands

Nature can have a profound positive impact on our mental well-being, so while I waited for my passport to be renewed, I decided to embark on a journey a little closer to home, and the wild and rugged moors of Scotland never looked so appealing. Paired with a long desire to climb Ben Nevis, I packed walking boots and waterproofs and set off to Glasgow, the starting point for my Scottish September adventure.

Stunning views while climbing Ben Nevis in September

Having never visited Scotland’s largest city before, my friend and I checked into Grasshoppers Hotel, right in the city centre overlooking Glasgow’s Central Train Station with its huge glass-panelled ceiling. After a restful night’s sleep, we drove two-and-a-half hours towards Fort William, leaving Glasgow and its high-rises behind. Once out of the city suburbs, the scenic route took in the whole 24-mile length of glimmering Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park that surrounds it; a magical first glimpse of the Scottish highlands, made even more beautiful by the orange, gold and crimson autumn leaves dancing delicately on trees above. Awaking early the next day to birdsong and drizzle, the day of our Ben Nevis hike had arrived. With snack-filled backpacks already waiting in the car, we drove along winding, misty roads to the Ben Nevis car park and visitor centre, where it's easy enough to find a spot to park. More rain set in, and the few cars in the car park proved we’d almost have the mountain to ourselves. By 9.15am, we were on our way through mossy fields towards the UK’s highest peak. 

Is September a good time to hike Ben Nevis?

For our hike, we couldn’t see the top of Ben Nevis due to low-lying cloud, and we later learned the summit is only visible for an average of 30 days per year due to it being a massive 1,345 meters (4,412 feet) high, regardless of whether you hike in summer, autumn, spring or winter. It’s not unusual to experience a variety of temperatures and weather conditions throughout the hike, and that proved true for our Ben Nevis climb during the month of September. For most of the ascent, visibility was pretty minimal and rain featured heavily, meaning we had to pick up speed to stay warm on the way up. While coming down, we were treated to sunshine reminiscent of a spring afternoon. 

What to expect and how long does it take to hike Ben Nevis during September?

For the first two-thirds of the hike, the path is easy enough to follow, with burnt orange ferns lining the way, but the higher we climbed, the more rocky the path (or lack of it) became. I’ve never been happier to be wearing walking boots, as attempting this trek without them could have proved lethal.

Views from the start of our Ben Nevis climb were made all the more beautiful by the autumnal September colors

As our walk progressed, visibility became less and less, before huge, man-made pyramids of rock slowly emerged from cloud and fog to provide the only reassurance we were on the right track. Eventually, three and a half hours later, wet and tired, we reached the top of Ben Nevis, where the temperature was close to freezing. Although we didn’t get sweeping panoramic views from the summit due to low visibility, reaching the cloud-covered top with only a few people in sight made it all the more atmospheric. 

My friend, Zoe at the summit of Ben Nevis

The descent proved almost harder than the climb up. Using core strength along with leg muscles that don’t usually get used, paired with an acute concentration on which rocks to stand on, made it tiring and long. For an hour, we descended with little visibility, wondering if we’d ever catch a glimpse of the surroundings. But then a sudden break appeared in the wispy grey clouds to reveal Lochan Meall An T-suidhe, a huge expanse of water reflecting the tin coloured shade of the sky above. With no visibility on the way up, we’d missed these views completely, but now, with the relief of already reaching the top of Ben Nevis behind us, I enjoyed them all the more. 

A glimpse of Lochan Meal An T-suidhe from our September Ben Nevis hike

Seven hours after we started out that morning, we reached, once again, the foot of the mighty mountain, elated but exhausted and more ready than ever for a large glass of whiskey. While we witnessed an array of weather conditions during our hike in September, the colors and fast-moving clouds provided some seriously photogenic moments, and we also enjoyed having much of the tracks to ourselves. Less busy than the spring and summer months, September really is a great time to climb the mighty peak. But waterproofs and thermals are imperative.